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The ultimate army experience

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ABOUT THE WRITER

Training with the professionals
Story and photographs by Gomase Theenanon

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Life in an army camp is no longer a secret now that the Royal Thai Army has responded to the government's tourism policy to open up the barracks to the public so that they can join in army activity programs. The tour offers a genuine opportunity to learn survival techniques at the military base.
 
Tourists can learn about the jungle life of military personnel by going on a trekking course, building a simple camp with natural materials, learning about conservation and safeguarding nature, plus horse riding and much more.
 
I joined this great program with a tourist group from Gem Travel, a local pioneering tour operator who first led tourists on a tour of Thai military camps in 1998. Countless tour operators in the North use eco-tourism as a selling point but the original adventure tour operator is the Royal Thai Army. The Special Pack Squadron, established in 1971, follows the Ramkhamhaeng Army Development Plan to promote the honour and skills of this military unit to the public.

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It is based in Don Kaew sub-district, covering an area of about 3,424 rai and is surrounded by a beautiful natural landscape. On the Chiang Mai-Mae Rim road, just a few kilometres from Chiang Mai provincial city, a military sign designates the location.
 
As soon as I spotted it, I also noticed many horses nibbling the grassy ground in front of the squadron's headquarters where our adventure was to begin. The military program offers a basic survival and adventure course, firstly, you must be physically fit to cope with the basics of horse riding, rock climbing and jungle trekking.
 
On my first day, the program seemed quite relaxed in the classroom. We were taught by a sergeant about the basics of horse riding and the control of the horse. He shared his knowledge and experience of all things equestrian before we went out for a very enjoyable horse ride around the barracks for a couple of hours.
In the afternoon, after finishing a big lunch, there were two exciting demonstration programs of martial skills on horseback and the use of ponies and donkeys for highland operations.
 
``We hope that army life will give you amusement during the three-day program, and tomorrow your party has to spend some time in the jungle, you may be expected to cook and set up your camp. You have to learn how to protect and live with nature,'' said our trainer.
 
At 7pm we had a group meeting in the simple barracks, consisting of two rows of beds. At 9 pm, the ``last post'' signal let everybody know that it was time to bed down for the night. It was such a quiet place and I was overcome with a pleasant feeling of tiredness at the end of a long day.
 
The next morning after a simple breakfast, as we were preparing our trekking gear before departure, the trainer repeated ``please don't take anything from the forest, always remember that you are walking in the world's biggest oxygen pump.''

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Who said trekking during the rainy season wasn't enjoyable? We were each given rucksacks and canteens. However, the first two hours of trekking was to be more challenging than we expected, and our rucksacks became increasingly heavy as we climbed up the short, yet steep hills. On some parts of our trek we had to wade across a small creek, a young girl in the team slipped a couple of times on the steep track. The sergeant-trainer (sometimes we called him Mr Indiana Jones) cut her a walking stick from bamboo.
 
I now understand the meaning of bio-diversity in the jungle. Some herbs can be a medicine used for curing, but other kinds are poisonous! Someone in the group remarked: ``Nature is a giant classroom for humans.''
 
After six hours of trekking, it was a hot, sticky day and we made an early camp for the night in the cool of a small grove near a hill tribe village. Bamboo was used to construct a simple shelter and the roof was covered with banana leaves, under-sealed with a plastic sheet. That evening, bamboo canes were used for cooking rice, sticky rice and boiled eggs. Then there was cream of mushroom soup and a canned fish salad with red onions, lemon and chillies. This were tasty enough for us because everyone was very hungry. Our trainer began to tell us about the duties of the Special Pack Squadron.
 
``We are the supporting army unit for highland operations. We use our pack animals to carry supplies and equipment for our long-range inspections along the border with Burma. Each year these animals retire from military service and the income from tourism can help support them and purchase food for them,'' he said.
 
The next morning after breakfast we had class room conservation lessons and then cleaned-up around the camp ground. After these duties, we were told that we had passed the military jungle trekking course. We were each given a certificate of survival and a tiny star.
 
Nothing I have ever experienced compares with the jungle experience that I shared with the others. Trekking is a pleasure for some tourists, but an outdoor adventure such as this, with the Royal Thai Army, gives one the ultimate professional experience. For information please mail to gomase@gmail.com
 

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