‘Kwan Phayao’ is a name that always reminds me one of an old song and sweet lyrics that describe a man and his sweetheart chatting beside the lake under moonlight. Phayao is not only a pretty town with the largest fresh water-lake in northern Thailand, but also hold unseen tourist attractions of art and culture.

            Many years ago I found Phayao when I was looking for a place to settle down. It seemed fabulous. It has that large lake with scenic surroundings. Somebody said Phayao was famous for its friendly people and beautiful women and it proved true.

            The provincial public relations office for tourism invited me back recently. Just 140 kilometers from Chiang Mai, people generally start here on the four-lane Highway 118 to Chiang Rai, then turn right on route 120. The roads are good, and ride through the mountains.

            Some 64km of Chiang Mai, Mae Khachan Hot Springs is busy all day. The fresh coffee’s always good at the local restaurants, and the cost of souvenirs is fair for shopping lovers-particularly antiques.

            The small hot spa is hot: 100 degrees Celsius just right for a three-minute egg. Private spa rooms are available. The water has a high sulfur content and is said to cure and restore. From Ban Mae Khachan to Phayao takes about two and half-hours past spectacular views of paddy fields and small hamlets.

            At Wat Sri Khom Kham I met Khun Pook, the province officer, waiting patiently. She showed me around the temple on the bank of Kwan Phayao, shaded with big trees.

            Locals call it Wat Phra Jao Ton Luang and by whatever name it houses the largest sitting Buddha image in the North, 16 meters high and a lap width of 14 meters. It took 33 years to build. As always, the wat has a resident collection of fortune-tellers, birds, smoke from the joss sticks, and a holy atmosphere.

            Across the parking lot, Ho Trinithat museum shows the history and displays the relics of Phayao. It opens from 9.00 a.m.to 4.00 p.m. and admission fee is just 10 baht, but it is closed on Monday and Tuesday.

            Phayao or Phu Kam Yao is 900 years old, and was as independent state with its own rulers at one time. In the mid 14^th century, it became part of the Lanna Thai kingdom. This lovely valley town halfway between Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai became a Thai province Aug 28 1977, when it separated from Chiang Rai.

            Visiting Kwan Phayao is a highlight, and not as plain as its name indicates Kwan in the local dialect means ‘big swamp’. The lake is the Thailand’s third most important water resource, and the most important center of fresh-water farming in the upper northern region. The specialty is the giant Mekong giant catfish, Pla Buek.