Recently I cruised down the 10^th longest river in the world to the ancient city of Luang Prabang by a luxury boat. A cruise on the mighty Mekong is one of life’s great travel experiences and a perfect way to enjoy the riverside scenery.
  An overnight stay in Chiang Kong district of Chiang Rai province can be quite relaxing, even for for budget travellers who need a day’s rest before crossing the border into Laos. Dining at the riverside Rim Kong Restaurant’s open-air terrace under the stars was romantic.
   Next morning our departure was held back by immigration officials processing visa applications to enter Laos. Our trip began late from Ban Huay Xai, a Laotian border town opposite Thailand’s Chiang Kong. These days Huay Xai is a small town with a busy local market and several new guest houses that cater to tourists, but in the old days it was an important trading point for passing between China and Thailand.
  The Pak Ou boat was waiting for us by the bank. It’s a 34 meter-long wooden vessel fitted with all the amenities for passenger comfort, safety and enjoyment. It had an open top and comfortable chairs allowing passengers to relax and enjoy the spectacular view.
  On board we were welcomed by the captain who briefed us the itinerary on the first day when we would be sailing to Luang Say Lodge near Pakbeng town, a seven-hour cruise past pristine forests and mountains.

  “During the trip you will see ethnic hill tribe groups, ancient temples and activities that contribute to the income of the people, such as farming, fishing, weaving, liquor brewing and logging. So let’s sit back and relax,”said the captain.
  The left bank of the Mekong was Laos, backed mountains with thick forest cover rising from the shore and little sign of human activity, while the right bank, which was the Thai side, was more developed hosting farms, fruit and vegetable plantations.
  After sailing five hours downstream we arrived at Ban Khon Tuen, a Lao Lue hill tribe village. It had splendid houses built on thick teak pillars three meters above the ground. In the basement men repaired long-tailed boats, while the women operated handlooms weaving the famous Lao-Lue cloth famous for its wonderful color and designs. The dyes they used were made from ash and tree leaves. It seemed a happy and prosperous and peaceful village.
   Five kilometers before Pak Beng the river passed through a narrow gorge with a large rock in the shape of a lion guarding the way. The captain knew the river like the back of his hand and steered the boat out of harm’s way. He then informed us that there was nothing to worry because the Pak Ou we were sailing in had a hardened steel hull.
  Late in afternoon we arrived at Luang Say Lodge set against the backdrop of a forested mountain. Its 16 large pavilions of solid wood all had balconies over-looking the Mekong and the mountains beyond. Built in traditional Laotian style, each pavilion was equipped with a large private bathroom, hot shower and toilet.
  After checking in, I took the time to walking through a village near the lodge. The houses were particularly pretty supported by huge wooden pillars. Like all other villages by the river, there were no roads linking them, so the villages were entirely dependent on the river for transport.

I had dinner at a riverside restaurant not far from the pavillion by taking a wooden walkway. The restaurant provided stunning view of the Mekong. I ate Pla Buek or giant catfish fried with garlic and pepper ordered from the special menu. It was served with white wine. The cook told us the fish are enormous-the largest freshwater fish in the world that can grow up to three meters long and weigh 300 kilograms.
  Then we retired for the day. The air was cool so we didn’t need a fan. The night was quiet and peaceful in these tranquil surroundings.
  The next morning we left Pak Beng for Luang Prabang. About four kilometers down stream we passed the Udom Kaset sawmill. The logs were felled on the other side and dragged to the river by elephants. From there they were ferried across on barges and then hauled to the sawmill by elephant.
  Approaching Luang Prabang, I saw a huge and elegant rock cliff opposite the Pak Ou River that empties its contents into the Mekong. It houses two magnificent cave temples call Tham Ting. They can be reached by a steep path that winds around the cliff face. The caves contain thousands of Buddha images.
  Opposite the cave was the Pak Ou village, which specializes in brewing local whiskey or Lao Khao. It’s a very potent brew and the captain warned us to stay clear of it. But one person didn’t heed his warning and decide to sample it. Not long after that we could see his demeanor had changed.
  We arrived at the former capital of Laos in the afternoon. Luang Prabang is one of the most beautiful ancient cities of Southeast Asia. In 1995, Unesco declared it a World Heritage site.
   For centuries it’s was the capital of northern Laos and later the royal capital of a unified Laos. Most of the city sits on a narrow split of land between the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, but it seems larger than its 20,000 population would suggest.
   Before a tour of temples, our guide led us to the royal palace, which added a new perspective to our understanding of Laos. The royal palace is now a museum housing many Buddha images dating back to the 15^th century.