An illustrious past

Chiang Mai was 706 years old in April of 2002 and I remembered that I came here for the first time in 1971. I found Chiang Mai enchanting and it impressed me deeply the way that the people were hospitable and helpful. I had wandered along Chiang Mais back streets talking with people and visiting temples by tricycle giving me lots of good memories.

There are more than 150 temples in the city, of which some have been renovated, some are under restoration and many have been lost by time. However, Buddhism has flourished in the northern Kingdom as well as the Sukhothai and Ayutthaya Kingdoms. The ruined temples here in Chiang Mai are a challenge for archeologists and visitors to explore the hidden temples pagodas (Chedis) to try to find out their history.

The best way to visit Chiang Mais ancient remains is by cycling or motorbike because it is more convenient and easy to park. Sometimes you have to go down a small alley from the roadside. They are scattered all over the city, some sites have been encroached by the local people.

Well, lets make a survey starting from the north of Chang Puak gate outside the old wall on Chotana road. In the past, this road was used by visiting royalty to enter the city. If you approach the city from the north, a little before you reach it, on the left hand side you will find an old Chedi called Wat Daeng Nork (meaning that the outside is red in colour). You can see immediately that this large brick construction is all red, and was built in the16th century, but now the spire is missing.

A little further down on the right hand side, behind the Siam Commercial Bank you can seen a Lanna style Chedi of Wat Pa Oy standing in the middle of commercial buildings, but no trace of a temple. Coming down and turning left at the Chang Puak (White elephant) monument in front of Chang Puak Bus station is Wat Pun Sards Chedi built in the castle style with beautiful stucco decorations but the temple completely gone..

A huge castle style Chedi situated on Maneenopparat Road facing the canal where once Wat Loke Molee existed. It was built in 1528 and troops from Ayutthaya led by the King came to attack Chiang Mai. Chiang Mai at that time was ruled by Princess Jiraprapa. She offered tributes to the King and invited him to make merit at this temple. This temple is now undergoing renovation and will become a working temple once again.

Now, coming into the city centre to the Three Kings Monument on Phrapokklao Road. Behind the monument was once the old city hall. There is the remains of a Chedi of Wat Inthakin, built in Burmese (Pagan) style. One archaeologist presumes that this 700 year old Chedi might contain the ashes of King Mengrai, the founder of Chiang Mai.

Nearby on the roadside you will see Luang Por Khao Monastery (white painted Buddha image) and overgrown bell shaped Chedi with yellow robe is hidden behind it. This Chedi was built covering another Chedi on the same site and was built during the same period as the building of Chiang Mai.

Follow southward on Phraprokklao Road until you arrive at Putthisophon school. On the left hand side you will see a Chedi covered with the shade of trees where Wat Chet Tha once was. There are, unfortunately, no records about this wat. It may have been connected with the Lan Xang Kingdom (Laos) which once controlled Chiang Mai.

A little further down before you arrive at Chiang Mai gate on the right hand side, diagonally opposite Wat Muen Toom, you will find a Chedi behind a very old monastery where the big Buddha face lies. This was once Wat Jed Rin or Nong Jarin. This Wats name appears in the Hariphunchai (Lamphun) legends and was used as a place for the coronation of the King.

On the outer side of Chiang Mai gate you will see an unnamed old Chedi sandwiched in between commercial buildings and shop houses. The temple is probably underneath the road or somewhere in the building complex.

The ancient remains are a treasure of the country that should be preserved. Glad to hear that The Fine Arts Department is going to study and restore the hidden Chedis and lost temples.