Misty mountain road

TRAVEL BOARD

Misty mountain road

Tranquillity in the northern hills

Lying in the soothing hot springs, gazing up at the star-studded night sky, I wonder if life could get any better. It was time to reflect upon the wonderful two days spent in Thailands northern highlands, before the final one-hour drive back to Chiang Mai.

Three days earlier, I was feeling very despondent as I wandered around the street of Chiang Mai seeing nothing but repetitive blurbs on tours into the surrounding mountains.

Then I get in luck, I met Khun Mam at Thana guesthouse where she was the owner and tour operator, she introduced the idea to me, calling it adventure on the highlands. An impressive conversation followed regarding her support for sustainable tourism and her passion for the Thai environment. On that day I decided to join a two days trip with the caravan tour at the weekend along the winding mountain road that links Khun Yuam-Mae Hong Son and Pai.

From the outset the secret of the trips success was perfect timing. My early start in the morning enabled me to witness a blanket of cloud wrapped around the mountain peaks below as I stood on the summit of Doi Inthanon. Its Thailands highest mountain dominating the majestic landscape. The contemporary pagoda, Phra Mahathat Naphamethanidon, built for the King by the Royal Thai Air Force was lower down the mountain beneath the cloud layer. An accompanying pagoda is dedicated to the Queen.

I spent the whole day driving a Suzuki Jeep 4 wheel-drive follow the winding road to a small rural town named Khun Yuam. That evening, as I approached Mae Hong Son, the setting sun bathed the mountains in orange light contrasting with the shadowy valleys below.

The ordered valley agriculture of rice, banana palms, cabbages and so on was replaced by natural forest ascending up the mountains, dry in appearance because of the season. Following the Thanon Thongchai mountain ridge which is a like huge fortification that blocks off this town from the outside civilization. I stayed at a bungalow by Jong Kham lake with a very nice room that made me feel totally relaxed before bedtime.

The following morning I looked down upon the layer of fog still settled on Mae Hong Son from the hilltop of Wat Phrathat Doi Kong Moo.

The crisp morning light intensified the orange of the monks robe and the silver filigree edging on the roof of the Shan-built Wat. One of the two large Shan stupas has niches devoted to the days of the week; each persons special day relates to their day of birth.

For at least a decade, this town has not changed much, hardly any traffic and the origin of the majority of the people here is Thai Yai, holding on strong to their way of life and belief in their traditions and customs. There are several small streets, Shan temples and two storey wooden houses which line both sides of the street that make this lovely town took very peaceful.

At a local restaurant I was treated to a Tom Yam Pla made with local prized carp, cooked by a postmans wife at an open air restaurant in Mae Hong Son. The market was a delightful visual experience offering delicious snacks like sticky rice wrapped in banana palm leaves and rice flour sweets. I stopped at the small market village of Ban Soppong (but nothing much to see there) before arriving in Pai. Pai is a small peaceful town, a paradise of backpackers who want to have a long stay here. I said goodbye to Pai and went ahead along the same road to Ban Pang Mapha, a local hilltribe village.

At the hilltribe villages, I was provided with some culturally stimulating experiences. I was welcomed by the people of the Lahu, Lisu, Karen and Hmong tribes. A Lahu woman and her daughter invited me onto their verandah to watch them sew their intricate jackets. A family in a Lisu village offered me their hospitality with a platter of fresh papaya. One of the younger members sat weaving colourful fabric using a foot loom. Unfortunately, I did not have the opportunity to stay longer and learn more about each tribes culture, religion and traditional handicrafts.

I had to leave Pai, a lovely, small town, full of good memories. A great travelling experience waiting for you on the 1,864 curves of misty mountain road.

It was the first Jeep Trek Adventure operator in Chiang Mai since 1995, complete with professional staff and vehicles. Using drugs is prohibited. The adventurous trip is now open for Thais. More information please contact:gomase@gmail.com

Story by Gomase Theenanon

Spotlight, Horizons section, Bangkok Post, February 7, 2002